2 Minutes of Sky

Last post 24th March! If I knew what the date was I'd be shocked, I know we're close to some religous shebang that has something to do with chocolate and bank holidays. Anyway I went out the other night as the light was looking pretty good so I arrived and set up and the light went straight to hell so I thought I'd do a few more long exposures. I did a few at 10 minutes but didn't like the results, this one was exposed for 120 seconds, f/16, ISO100 16mm, and if these setting seem familiar it's because I was taking photos of a tree and they are the only settings I allow for tree photos :) Not much else about it really, the 10 stop gives off a little magenta hue for long exposures but if you shoot RAW you can have a little diddle with the white balance when you get home. I quite like how the outer leaves were blurred but the stable branches stayed sharp, gives it a etheral quality. Have a good weekend everyone.

Long Exposure Sunset

I was out taking this at a local water sports lake and I had a couple of points I thought might be useful to remember for this blog but have forgotten them! I think I'll have to get a ball head for my tripod at some stage, I have a three way head at present and they can be a little cumbersome, especially when composing a shot a few inches above the water. To make things even worse I had to look through the view finder upside down, not the most accurate way of getting the horizon level. This was taken with the 10 Stop filter that I'm using a fair bit lately. As these are so dense (in terms of light transmission) you have to compose and focus with the filter off the camera and then slide it into the holder, although I find it easier to take the filter and the holder off and just snap it on for the shot. I also had a graduated filter to prevent the sky from blowing out, very easy when including the sun. A good idea if you are using these long exposure filters is to get your exposure right without it on then just add 10 stops of light So say 30 clicks of increasing your shutter speed, or if you get to 30 seconds and don't want to go into bulb mode but have only done 6 stops (18 clicks if your camera goes in 1/3 stop increments), open up the aperture 4 stops (12 clicks). It seems a little difficult to get your head round but once you do it'll make things a whole lot easier and you'll always use full manual, for landscapes anyway. This was taken at ISO100 19mm, f/14 for 30 seconds. There is a little lens flare to illustrate my last point, ALWAYS clean your lens and any filters between the camera and subject, be it UV filters, ND filters or Grads, any dust when shooting into the sun will refract it and make the shot only good for blog tutorials or healing brush practice!

Adventures in Macro Photography

A bit of a lazy day photography wise today, I ended up getting back into my macro mode, I used to do quite a lot of macro stuff but haven't recently, (the same could be said for blog posts!) Anyway there were no fancy lights involved or even tripods used in this shot. It was taken over a sink of water with natural light from the outside causing the refracting in the bubbles to get the colour. The exif is as follows: 1/200 at f5.6 ISO800 with my sigma 50mm macro lens. I decided to stop when I started dipping my camera in the water. As the ISO was a bit higher than I usually like I ran it through noise ninja, a plugin for CS3 which does a good job of removing noise. I'm not sure about the open space at the top but I'm not a huge fan of changing aspect ratios so I left it in.

More Flash and Water

I quite like working with water so I putting a couple of recent ones from a recent set I did in the shower. This also demonstrates a principal it took me a while to understand about freezing motion, normally if you want to freeze a stream or a fast moving car you up your shutter speed to say 1/1000, this is fine if you are out side but a bit different indoors as most cameras can only synchronise their shutter with the flash to speeds of about 1/250 (this is the cameras x-sync speed). This always panicked me as 1/250 isn't really fast enough to freeze the water BUT as a scene like this is lit with flash only, ie no ambient light the duration of the flash is a lot quicker than 1/250 so you could actually leave your shutter open for say 1/30 which is nowhere near fast enough to freeze water but as long as there is no (or little) ambient light the flash will be enough to stop the motion of the water. These two were taken at f6.3 for 1/200 at 170mm ISO 100. It was lit with a single speedlite to the camera left and I had a piece of orange card behind the shower. The levels were tweaked in Lightroom after, another rainy day project.

Running a Bath

This was just a quick abstract I took last night whilst the bath was running, I've manipulated the colours in lightroom and added a radial gradient in photoshop, thats the greenish curve. It was all fairly experimental, but I was in a bathroom with no windows!